Irene’s Arete is one of the classics of Teton Alpinism. After approaching the route via Lupine Meadows trailhead, you will leave the crowds behind in the valley and gain a wide view of the South Teton, Nez Perce, and the Middle Teton. Climbing is stout, and one wonders how Irene managed this route on first ascent in outdated boots.
Garnet Canyon Meadows
We left in the afternoon from Lupine Meadows Trailhead and after a few hours hike, pitched our tent in the beautiful Meadows area. Usually crowded, we had the place all to ourselves. Even the Exum guides had taken down their hut on the Lower Saddle and deserted the place.
Alpenglow on South Teton
The next morning was surprisingly warm. The alpenglow on the South Teton was worthy of a painting.
Nez Perce, South Teton
This pano view from the base of Irene’s is dominated by Nez Perce, a peak we planned to do the next day.
The first pitch was 5.8 on perfect Teton granite. Out of 6 pitches there wasn’t a slack one in the bunch.
Jason leading out after completing some strenuous moves to clear the slight roof.